2" Body Lift Install
2002 Nissan Frontier King Cab XE-V6 4x4 5-Spd.
by BigPasta

NOTE: The Frontier has been sold and it will be missed, but I'm leaving this up for reference purposes after being made aware that people are still using it :-)

TABLE OF CONTENTS


  1. Before Beginning the Body Lift
  2. Lifting the Cab
  3. Lifting the Bed
  4. Modifying the Rear Bumper Brackets
  5. DIY Front Wheel Well Liners
  6. Stock Front Bumper Relocation
  7. Radiator Drop Down
  8. Before & After Pictures  (More pictures HERE and HERE)
  9. Download pdf version of this writeup (2.6MB)
  10. Questions? Results? Send me an email!
 

I have written this How-To to assist people with installing a 2" body lift on a Nissan Frontier King Cab. The 2" lift kit available for the Frontier is advertised only for a CrewCab, but it can work on a King Cab. The following instructions reflect my experience with my truck only. If you use any part of these instructions you do so at your own risk.

For reference, here are the original instructions that came with my lift kit: AC 2" BODY LIFT INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS (opens in new window)


Before beginning the body lift: (Notes and Suggestions)
 

  • Research the various Nissan forums. I had compiled a folder of information about 1 inch thick prior to even ordering the body lift.
     
  • Get a friend or two to help. Buy them beer. Buy them food. Buy them whatever they want.
     
  • Set aside 3 full days to get everything done. None of it is rocket science, but it's a lot of little things that are time consuming. I had never installed a body lift and it took me three full days with help from my girlfriend.
     
  • Get a set of gloves. I bought a pair of Mechanix brand gloves. Now I have cuts in the gloves instead of my hands.
     
  • Identify that you have the necessary parts in your kit. The "Parts List" on my instructions were incomplete and inaccurate. Although the following picture is crappy, it basically shows the parts you should have:


     
  • More detail of the parts:

     
  • Once identified, place each set of lift parts in their own zip-loc bag and label them. 
     
  • The following picture shows the bolts that were in my kit:



    1 & 2:      180mm   - These did not get used
    3 & 4:      160mm   - These are for the rear cab body mount locations. I had to use a couple extra washers on the end because the bolt was a little too long
    5 - 8:        6"            - These are for the front and middle cab body mount locations
    9 & 10:    4.5"         - These are for the rear bed body mount locations.
    11 & 12:  4"            - These are for the front bed body mount locations. (I had to buy two more of this same size for the middle body mount locations.)
    13 & 14:  80mm    - These are for extending the driveshaft safety loop, (with the two metal sleeves included in the kit.)
     
  • Get underneath your truck and identify all of the body mount points and familiarizes yourself with the parts in the kit and where they will be going on your truck.
     
  • Here is a picture of the body bolt locations:


     
  • Use masking tape to mark the alignment of your cab and bed to ensure you have both at the proper height after lifting both. After running a piece of tape spanning the cab and bed, I used a level to draw a line in pencil from the piece of tape on the cab to the corresponding piece of tape on the bed. Also measure the distance between the cab and the bed in a few places and record the numbers.
     


    After both cab and bed were lifted 2".


    After the bed only was lifted 2".
     

     

  • Don't use the metal fuel filler extension pipe supplied in the kit. Just buy some longer bulk hose at your local auto parts store. Take in the extension pipe to determine the correct size. I bought a longer section of bulk radiator hose to replace the stock fuel filler line. Also buy some real hose clamps / worm clams for the hose.
     
  • Since the lift I have learned that the body side support brackets are unnecessary and once removed with the rear cab body bolt, they do not need to be reinstalled with the lift. I will be removing mine as all they do is creak and moan. That saves a few PIA steps down below.
     
  • Most people have to extend the transfer case shifter with this lift to allow shifting into 4lo. I got luck and didn't have to do it. (The ONLY thing I got lucky with on this lift.) To extend the transfer case shifter, you can either weld the included piece to the shifter, notch the plastic around the shifter boot, or attach a long cheat bar to the shifter and bend it back.
     
  • Although the steps below detail doing the lift starting with the cab, I had to start with the bed because of my shell. It comes forward just enough to interfere if I were to have lifted the cab first.
     
  • I did not have to deal with relocating the stock front bumper because I installed a Shrockworks front bumper immediately after I installed the body lift. Do not buy the 2" front bumper relocation brackets though - they suck. Make your own.
     
  • I had an aftermarket Cold Air Intake (Volant) so I did not have to deal with reinstalling the stock air intake.
     
  • I didn't have to do anything to the emergency brake cable.

Now for the steps for lifting the cab:

1. Disconnect negative battery cable, then positive battery cable.

2. Remove air bag fuse from the fuse box.

3. Remove the air cleaner assembly.

4. Strap your steering wheel securely to both  grab handles and the brake so that it doesn't move after you have loosed the top bolt on the steering shaft.

    
 
5. Mark the steering shaft at the top with chalk to ensure proper alignment after the lift in case any movement occurs. In the picture below for Step 6, you can see the chalk marks above and below the splines on the steering shaft.

6. Loosen the top bolt holding the upper splines of the steering shaft in place. (Circled in yellow above.) This will allow the steering shaft to extend when you lift the body.

    

7. Disconnect the power steering reservoir from it's mount. (Slide it up and out.)

8. Remove the two screws and brake vacuum line guard from the passenger side of the frame located just inside the passenger side fender well.

    
                                       Picture taken after the lift was installed.

9. Remove the two bolts holding the line brackets in place.

    

  The bolts in the yellow circles are from the removed line guard. (I screwed them back into their holes so they wouldn't get lost. The bolts in the blue circles are what you want to remove to allow slack for the brackets to move.

10. Follow the lines above rear-ward along the frame rail and pop out the brackets from their attachments along the frame rail.

 

11. Remove the two bolts holding the driveshaft safety loop to the floorboards.

    

  Just leave the safety loop hanging downward for now.



12. Remove the front bumper. The following is a picture with the front bumper removed.

    

13. Remove the wheel well liners.

14. Remove the lower radiator fan shroud. It is about 2" wide by about 18" long.

Removing the lower fan shroud allows you to skip all of the radiator relocation steps. You will just leave that lower fan shroud off after the body lift is complete.

15. Remove the one screw and one clip from the passenger side floor kick panel. Peel back the carpet to expose the middle cab body mount bolt cover.

16. Remove the one screw and one clip from the passenger side floor kick panel. Peel back the carpet to expose the middle cab body mount bolt cover.

    

17. Remove the two upper bolts attaching the outside support bracket to the body. Do this for each side. The support bracket is located on the rear cab body mounting bolt.

      

  Although I removed mine, you can leave the nuts circled in yellow alone. The bolts you want to remove are located directly above those and are attached to the body.

18. Remove the rear bumper and disconnect the rear license plate lights.

19. Remove the bumper brackets and tow hitch if you have one installed. NOTE: This step may not be necessary if you do a little modification invented by KingSlayer over on NOR, but I had to do it to get my torque wrench to fit in the tight space.

20. Remove the three screws from the fuel filler neck and the bed. (Screw locations circled in yellow) The vent lines and guard do not need to be removed.

  Some people may have enough slack in their fuel filler line to accommodate the 2" of lift, but mine didn't.



  Just leave the fuel filler lines resting on the tire for now.

21. Remove the 2 nuts from the 2 front most cab body bolts. Do not remove the bolts. There will be two (one on each side)  in the front.


                (Picture shows block and new longer bolt already installed)

22. Remove the 2 nuts (one on each side) from the 2 middle cab body bolts. Do not remove the bolts.

23. Loosen the rear cab body bolt on the passenger side. Do not remove the bolt.


                                        (Picture shows new bolts and brackets already installed)

24. Remove the rear cab body bolt from the driver side. The outside support bracket will come off now that the bolt is out.


                                        (Picture shows new bolts and brackets already installed)

25. Attach two of the four outside body support bracket extensions using the same stock bolts that held the support bracket to the body. Do not tighten. The four brackets inside the blue square pictures below are the four outside support bracket extensions.



26. Remove the middle cab body bolt from the driver side. I used a hammer to tap the bolt upward to loosen in from the plastic cover on top of it.

27. Remove the front driver side body bolt.


                (Picture shows block and new longer bolt already installed)

28. Raise the driver side slowly with a jack and a block of wood on top of it. This is where it helps to have someone watching the engine compartment for things getting too tight and listening for things straining while you are raising the body.

29. When there is enough space for the 2" round blocks to fit between the mount points and the body at the thee cab locations, insert them. Do not lower the body yet.

30. Add lock-tite to the threads and place the rear cab driver side body bolt through the bolt opening on the outside body support bracket and install the bolt up through the block and into the threads. Do not tighten. I had to use more washers than pictured because the supplied bolt was a little too long.

 

31. Install the nuts onto the bolts that are attached to the support bracket and secure the bracket to the bracket extensions using the 5/16" x 1" bolts, 5/16" washers, and 5/16" nuts. Do not tighten.



Here's a pic from the side:



32. Insert the middle cab driver side body bolt down through the hole by the kick panel. Screw the nylock nut onto the bolt. Do not tighten.

33. Insert the front cab driver side body bolt down through the front body mount hole. Screw the nylock nut onto the bolt. Do not tighten.

34. Lower the driver side body onto the blocks.

35. Remove the rear cab body bolt from the passenger side. The outside support bracket will come off now that the bolt is out.

36. Attach two of the four outside body support bracket extensions using the same stock bolts that held the support bracket to the body. Do not tighten.

37. Remove the middle cab body bolt from the passenger side. I used a hammer to tap the bolt upward to loosen in from the plastic cover on top of it.

38. Remove the front passenger side body bolt.

39. Raise the passenger side slowly with a jack and a block of wood on top of it. Watch out for the clips holding the brake and vacuum lines snapping in the engine compartment. I had to loosen the lines from their snap-in mounts in these locations:



Also watch out for the lines that are behind the line guard that you removed. I had to remove one of the snaps that was holding four of them together.

Lines behind the line guard in their stock position:


Lines behind the line guard after the lift:


To a certain extent  you can uncoil the lines inside the engine compartment after you're done with the body lift and try to get them close to where they were in the stock positions.

40. When there is enough space for the 2" round blocks to fit between the mount points and the body at the thee cab locations, insert them. Do not lower the body yet.

41. Add lock-tite to the threads and place the rear cab driver side body bolt through the bolt opening on the outside body support bracket and install the bolt up through the block and into the threads. Do not tighten. Again, I had to use more washers because the supplied bolt was a little too long.

42. Install the nuts onto the bolts that are attached to the support bracket and secure the bracket to the bracket extensions using the 5/16" x 1" bolts, 5/16" washers, and 5/16" nuts. Do not tighten.

43. Insert the middle cab passenger side body bolt down through the hole by the kick panel. Screw the nylock nut onto the bolt. Do not tighten.

44. Insert the front cab passenger side body bolt down through the front body mount hole. Screw the nylock nut onto the bolt. Do not tighten.



45. Lower the driver side body onto the blocks.

46. Measure the cab to bed distance to make sure it matches the measurements taken earlier. If it doesn't then nudge the cab until it does. I also looked down each side of the truck from the rear to make sure one side of the cab wasn't sticking out more than the other.

47. Tighten the 6 cab body bolts to 55Lb/Ft. 

48. Tighten the bolts for the side support brackets to 19Lb./Ft. (Bolts circled in yellow bellow) The bolts will crimp into the lower body seam. Don't worry about it.



49. AC's directions tell you to use the two brackets with one screw in them to "install the brake and vacuum lines" behind the line guard. Here are those brackets:



I still have not figured out how these friggin' things are supposed to be installed. I just uncoiled the lines in the engine compartment enough so that I could put the clip back on that holds the four lines and put the line guard back on.



50. Tighten the bolt holding the upper splines of the steering shaft in place. (Circled in yellow above.) You will notice that the shaft has probably extended approximately 1/2".



51. Secure the power steering reservoir to its bracket two inches lower. I used three zip ties.



I need to figure out a better solution. The zip ties work, it just seems cheesey.

52. Remove the loosened driveshaft safety loop from its holder and bend it so that the ends are closer together. I did this by putting one of the ends with the hole against my concrete driveway and putting all my weight on it in a progression of ape-like squats. I had to bend and unbend the loop as I climbed under the truck each time to see if it would fit.

53. Put the safety loop back into it's holder. Have fun figuring out how to twist it and turn it so it gets back in there.

53. Attach the safety loop using the two 2" metal tubes, two washers, and the two bolts. 



The driver side safety loop bolt was easy, but the passenger side was difficult to get threaded because it is so close to the fuel filter guard. (trouble spot circled in yellow). I had to turn the bolt using an open end wrench in 1/8 turn increments until it got past that fuel filter housing.

Passenger side & driver side safety loop bolts installed with extensions:

 


54. Install the passenger side and driver side interior floor kick panels.

55. Remove bungee straps from steering wheel.


Steps for lifting the bed:

56. Loosen but do not remove the six bed mounting bolts and nuts.

57. Remove the three passenger side bed body bolts. There will be circular rubber pads that come off with the bed mounting bolts - keep these to reinstall with the lift blocks, otherwise your bed will end up being that little bit lower than the cab. I know - I left them out the first time and had to redo the bed.

58. Raise the passenger bed side slowly with a jack and a block of wood on top of it.

If you don't have a shell on your bed you may be able to just lift up the bed while a second person slides the blocks in.

59. When there is enough space for the 2" round blocks to fit between the mount points and the body at the thee bed locations, insert them. Do not lower the body yet.

If you are close to being able to insert the blocks, but have run out of lift on your jack, you can push down on the frame and it should give you the clearance to insert the blocks.

60. Install the three passenger side bed body bolts up through the holes and blocks. Unlike how the OEM bolts go down through the frame with the head of the bolt on top, the new longer body bolts get inserted up through the frame with the bolt head on bottom and the nut on top. Do not tighten.

61.  Lower the passenger side bed body onto the blocks.

62. Repeat steps 57 - 61 for the driver side bed body bolts.

63. Measure the cab to bed distance to make sure it matches the measurements taken earlier. If it doesn't then nudge the bed until it does. I also looked down each side of the truck from the rear to make sure one side of the bed wasn't sticking out more than the other.

64. Tighten all six bed bolts to 85lb./ft.

Pictures of bed body blocks installed:

Driver side front bed body blocks:



Passenger side front bed body blocks:



Diver side middle and rear bed body blocks:



Passenger side middle and rear bed body blocks:



Comparison of stock rear bed body bolt and one for the lift:



Middle and rear bed body blocks installed:




65. To install the four bed overload blocks on the frame over the wheel wells, remove the four stock pads from the frame. They have two bolts each.



66. Have the new overload blocks tack welded to the frame only.



I had this done at a local muffler shop for $5.

67. Remove the stock fuel filler line from the gas tank and gas cap end and replace with the longer hose and real hose clamps.

68. Re-attach the gas cap end back into the door with the three stock screws.

69. Do not re-attach the rear hitch or bumper yet - I will show you below how to raise it.

70. Re-install air cleaner assembly.

71. Re-install air box fuse.

72. Connect battery cables.

73. Check all your body bolts to make sure they are torques to the correct specs. Do this again after 500 miles.

74. Start up your truck and make sure everything is functional and nothing is rubbing/leaking/exploding.


Modifying the rear bumper brackets for the 2" lift:

On the stock bumper brackets I drilled two new holes 1" higher on the end the bumper attaches to.
I drilled two new holes 1" lower on the end that attaches to the fame.
I only had to drill two holes on the frame end because there was already a hole 1" lower for the third, (rear-most,) bolt hole attaching it to the frame.

The yellow circles are the stock bolt hole locations:



Shortly after performing this mod, I noticed two wear marks on my tailgate. They were from the tailgate resting on the bumper. Apparently for my truck the two inches of bumper lift this mod gave me was too high. I put the bumper end back into it's original holes. (The ones in yellow on the left in the pic above.) Now the tailgate doesn't hit the bumper anymore and it still looks better than if I'd left it at the stock height with the 2" BL.


DIY front wheel well liner guards for the 2" lift:

I bought some 40mil PVC flexible bathtub liner from Home Depot. It comes in a four foot wide roll and I bought a four foot length of it for $20. That gave me two 2'x2' sections. I also picked up some extra plastic snaps/fasteners form the hardware store.

I placed the stock liners onto the 2'x2' sections and used the holes as a template to cut slits in the new liner. Once I attached the new liners, then I trimmed off the excess.

Driver side liner:

 

Passenger side liner:



I left the excess liner circled in yellow to help protect the lines behinds the line guard that are still a little exposed. I have since trimmed that excess off.
 


Bumper Relocation Bracket for Stock Front Bumper:    (Pictures courtesy of Yell01fronty from NOR)

You can buy the front bumper relocation brackets for the stock bumper or you can make your own. These are the brackets you can buy:

Bracket installed:


 


2 in BL Radiator Drop Down   (Write-Up by Yell01fronty from NOR)

1. Battery should still be disco'd from BL install, remove battery from tray. Remove overflow bottle and radiator cap.

2. Under the truck, remove the skid plate (10mm)

3. Once removed you can access the lower portion of the fan shroud, it's a half circle that snaps into the upper shroud about half way up. There are 2 clips that push in towards the fan and pull out to remove.

4. Remove gap liner from cross member- it's held in with plastic body clips. (carefully so you can re-use them).

5. Using a suitable container drain the radiator. (Use a funnel so it doesn't splash off cross member)

6. Remove upper radiator supports (10mm) and upper shroud bolts from radiator.

7. Loosen upper radiator hose clamp and remove from radiator.

8. Remove upper shroud being cautious not to damage/bend radiator fins.

9. Loosen lower radiator hose clamp at the block extension, leave attached to radiator.

10. Auto trans - Remove lower transmission cooler lines if so equipped.

11. Remove foam from around radiator.

12. You can now remove the radiator...clean out any debris that may be collecting between the radiator and the condenser.

13. (optional) I took the time to clean out the radiator fins of numerous bug parts and debris as well. There was a ton in there.

14. Now looking down into the space where the radiator sat you will see a ledge w/ 2 holes for the lower radiator mounting pegs to sit in. This is what you will be cutting off. (re-use the stock rubber grommets)

15. Using a plasma cutter...uhhh ok, ok - in a perfect world. LOL! Use a high speed 3 in cut off wheel, cut off the tabs and approximately in of the ledge x the length of the radiator. This needs to be removed so the radiator can slide down past this ledge.( Measure the length of your radiator for the right distance and go about in on each side farther.)



16. Spray the cut edge with black spray paint to prevent rust.

17. The instructions say to mark and drill the lower bracket and lower core support and attach with provided self tapping screws. Mine came with one screw. I decided to weld the bracket instead. I placed it and clamped it and tack welded it in and checked the fit, then tacked it in with 3 in welds, one in back and 2 in front.

18. Place the bracket evenly on the lower core support and sticking into the engine compartment in past the ledge. (If looking straight down into bay you should see it slightly) Mark your holes and drill and attach or clamp and tack it in place. Test fit radiator to ensure it will sit straight.

19. Modify upper radiator shroud. There are 2 molded tabs that need to be cut off to allow the shroud to fit flush with the radiator.

20. Re-install the radiator into the lower bracket holes using the stock rubber grommets. Attach radiator up top with supplied square tubing spacers and stock upper radiator brackets. (You may have to slightly re-bend brackets for good fitment.)

Upper Mounts:


 

Lower Drop Bracket:
 

All back together...you can see the bottom of rad close up against the lower core support:



21. Re-install upper fan shroud, test fit the fan to shroud to radiator fitment to ensure proper clearance for operation.

22. Re-install lower hoses, upper hose and verify radiator drain plug is tight. Re-install battery and then the overflow bottle. The bottle has a nipple on the bottom that fits into the fender if it isn't lining up for you.

23. Check all hose connections and bolts, refill radiator and overflow bottle accordingly.

24. Re-attach lower fan shroud and then lower liner with stock body clips.

25. Re-install skid plate. Recheck for any clearance issues or leaks. Congrats, it's done! Top off coolant if needed.
 

 


Before and After Shots:
 





Back to Top

Last Revision: September 21, 2005